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Red Letters Archives

There is nothing like the homeward journey. Whatever mode of transport you’re travelling car, plane, boat, train or bus that final leg back to where you started is saturated in reflection, nostalgia and anticipation.

This is the final entry from Red Letters. I’m about to jump into the Troopie and trek over 1000 km of red dirt along the Tanami desert track before a long stretch of bitumen down South.

Travelling home is a time to let your mind float canada goose outlet canada across the adventures you’ve had, pick through the memories of people and places that have sunk into your psyche, unravel the emotions and begin to edit your recollections ready for dissemination when you’re back on home turf.

Fitzroy Crossing has Canada Goose sale continued to reach maximum temperatures of over 40 degrees Celsius every single day for many weeks in a row now. The radio news lets us know every so often when this desert town has recorded the highest temperature in the whole country.

A convoy of caravans migrated south about six weeks ago. At the start of this cheap canada goose uk month there were still a few keen travellers trying to make the most goose outlet canada of the moderate mid 30 degree temperatures that can be enjoyed if you get out and about before 9am.

And now, in mid November, it’s pretty much the locals and stragglers left.

There seems to be loads of info around about the challenges and joys of travelling with children but not all that much around about how to travel with parents.

My mum has just joined the Red Letters trip for a week. She flew across from Melbourne to celebrate her birthday in the canada goose outlet uk sale North West corner with the canada goose outlet store one child she has who happens to be in the country.

I come from canada goose outlet jackets one of those families that’s been born from travel my parents met when my Aussie dad was hitchhiking through Finland and mum picked him up.

And then there are times when you might want to get more involved, stay on for a while, learn a bit of the language, and get a sense of the local community.

One way to get involved in a community is through “voluntouring” doing a volunteer project with travelling.

My second trip to the Kimberley was as a canada goose jacket outlet volunteer Canada Goose Parka in a remote community through the non government organisation Indigenous Community Volunteers.

It was this experience two years ago that led to my recent involvement in Kimberley Aboriginal Law and Culture Centre canada goose factory outlet Festival.

Unlike many Indigenous festivals which focus canada goose uk black friday on sharing culture canada goose outlet sale or having a cross cultural exchange such as Laura, Garma or the Dreaming the KALACC festival is held primarily for the Indigenous people of the Kimberley.

“And a Camper should only be in a relationship with another Camper to have a happy life,” she says. And perhaps it works vice versa for the Non campers?

Sometimes I forget that there are people out there who don’t enjoy camping.

When you are lying in your swag and looking up at the stars it’s hard to imagine any better place to spend the night. You see canada goose outlet toronto factory a shooting star every seven minutes, on average, up this way. And there is something quite romantic about being finely tuned to the phases of the moon. This spectacular photograph was taken in the Australian desert by richocam.

Up here in the Kimberley, I call camping the “Billion Star” accommodation option. When you’re miles away from everyone and there’s no light pollution from anywhere, you feel much luckier than someone who might be relegated to that generic five star version with the plush decor and polished to be at your service sir staff. Five star seems homogenous, no matter where in the world you happen to be resting your head.

It gives you space to disconnect from the daily routine of life at home so you actually have time to be creative. And it encourages you to hone in on the new ness of everything whether that means new landscapes, a new language, or even an unusual design of a toilet system or the way you boil a kettle.

On a recent trip up along the Dampier Peninsula, a 200 kilometre stretch of coastline north of Broome, Red Letters had the opportunity to enjoy bursts of creativity inspired by this place, in the form of song and artwork.

We have travelled over 1000 kilometres of corrugated red roads. We’ve hiked over boulders to reach secluded watering holes, and sat in rock pools heated by underwater springs. After some long treks in the desert sun, we’ve dived into joltingly cold swimming holes and then warmed ourselves up again Canada Goose online under waterfalls that splash warm water (the streams run over black rocks that are heated in the sun!).

We’ve been deep canada goose outlet online sea fishing and fed a campground with our catch a 60 pound black dhufish, a handful of saddle back sea perch and then there were all those ones we threw back into the ocean javelin fish, reef sharks and queen fish. Tash shone silver with fish scales after her lessons in scaling, gutting and filleting our catch.

We’ve slept in our swags every night (that’s a pic of our campsite at Kalumburu). We’ve given up trying to keep the dirt from under our finger nails and accepted the brown grey tinge of our clothes. We’ve washed in the ocean and under waterfalls more often than we’ve had showers. We’ve learnt to ignore the bone jarring bounce canada goose coats on sale of the road, or, when it gets really bad, to just laugh along with it. And we’ve become adept at throwing our swags out the back of the Troopie, sparking up our campfire with a handful of canada goose black friday sale Spinifex (they call it “kerosene grass” up here) and pan frying our fish or, in duller moments, heating up a tin of baked beans.

We’ve been blissfully disconnected from the outside world no mobile range or internet for days on end.

And we’ve discovered that two chicks travelling in a 4WD along the Gibb River Road is entirely unusual.

And some of this happened on a road marked “highway” the Central Arnhem Highway a stretch of dirt that winds 700 kilometres from Katherine to Nhulunbuy, to the north eastern tip of Arnhem Land. Soft edges, bone jarring corrugations and vast crevices of sand appear with little warning.

We brushed with all canada goose factory sale the standard Territory terrors. Dingo packs that howled in the cheap canada goose dawn, bush telegraph tales of a two metre crocodile hovering at the Goyder River road side crossing, deadly snakes rippling across the sandy roads.

We witnessed the aftermath of a Buffalo versus 4WD gladiatorial battle and it was the buffalo left in road side rigor mortis. The bloated carcass was being inspected by two road tripping Melbournites as we drove by. They informed us they’d been trying to explode it’s fermenting belly, ‘just to see what happens’ and that the sharp rock they’d thrown at it canada goose outlet had bounced back with the same force, ‘like a trampoline’.

But it wasn’t until we were on our way back down the road, still riding on the high of the optimism and bursting heart goodwill of the Garma Festival, that we brushed with the road’s darkest force and official canada goose outlet it wasn’t animal but human.

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